Published April 26, 2024
When it comes to achieving that perfect hair color, precision is critical. Whether you’re a seasoned professional or a DIY enthusiast, understanding how to measure hair color and developer correctly can make a world of difference in the outcome of your coloring process.
Importance of Accurate Measurements
Measuring your hair color and developer accurately is crucial for several reasons. Using too much or too little product can lead to uneven color application, inconsistent results, and even damage to your hair. By following the proper measurement techniques, you can ensure a flawless coloring experience every time.
Terminologies in Measuring Hair Color and Developer
1. Developer
Also known as peroxide or an oxidizing agent, the developer is a crucial component in hair coloring that activates the dye’s color molecules. Developers come in various volumes (10, 20, 30, 40), denoting their strength and ability to lift or deposit color.
2. Mixing Ratio
The mixing ratio refers to the proportion of hair color to the developer used in a coloring mixture. Common ratios include 1:1, 1:1.5, and 1:2, depending on the desired color outcome and the level of lift required.
3. Tonal Base
The tonal base represents the natural underlying pigment of the hair before coloring. Understanding the tonal base is essential for selecting the right shade and developer strength to achieve the desired result.
4. Oxidation Level
The oxidation level of a developer indicates its strength and ability to lift or deposit color. Lower volume developers are used for deposit-only coloring or toning, while higher volumes are employed for lightening or drastic color changes.
5. Processing Time
Processing time refers to the duration the color mixture is left on the hair to develop. It varies based on the hair type, desired result, and developer strength, and following the recommended processing time is crucial for optimal color penetration and longevity.
6. Porosity
Porosity measures the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture and color. High-porosity hair absorbs color quickly but may also fade faster, while low-porosity hair requires longer processing times for color uptake.
7. Tint Brushes and Bowls
Tint brushes and bowls are tools used to mix and apply hair color. Tint brushes enable precise application, while plastic or glass bowls are preferred for mixing color to prevent unwanted reactions with metal.
Techniques for Measuring Hair Color and Developer
1. Use Package Measurement Marks
Many hair color tubes come with measurement marks that make it easy to dispense the correct amounts of color and developer. Familiarize yourself with these marks to get the precise proportions needed for your desired shade.
2. Use a Scale
A kitchen scale can be a valuable tool for measuring hair color and developer, especially when dealing with products that lack measurement markings. By weighing the ingredients, you can achieve consistency in your color mixtures.
3. Measuring Cups
For those without a scale, plastic measuring cups can measure the required amounts of hair color and developer. Ensure you scrape out every bit from the cups to avoid inaccuracies in your mixture.
Factors to Consider
Client’s Hair Type
Factors like hair length, texture, previous coloring history, and percentage of gray hair can impact the product needed.
Tools and Utensils
Use plastic or silicone bowls, utensils, and whisks to prevent dye oxidation and ensure a smooth blend.
Developer Strength
Different developers have varying strengths (levels 10 to 40). Choose the appropriate strength based on the desired color change and the client’s hair condition.
Understanding Developer Volumes
10 Volume Developer
Purpose
A 10-volume developer is a gentle formulation for toning, darkening, or depositing color.
Effects
It doesn’t lift the natural hair color much but is ideal for blending gray hair or enhancing the existing shade.
Suitability
Suitable for toning blonde shades, darkening hair slightly, and refreshing faded color.
20 Volume Developer
Purpose
A 20-volume developer is commonly used for moderate lifting and gray coverage.
Effects
It can lift the hair by one to two shades and is suitable for most permanent hair coloring processes.
Suitability
It is ideal for covering gray hair, achieving a noticeable color change, or lightening darker hair shades.
30 Volume Developer
Purpose
A 30-volume developer provides substantial lift and is used for more significant color changes.
Effects
It can lift the hair by two to three shades and is effective for lightening darker hair colors.
Suitability
Best suited for lightening medium to dark hair colors or achieving vibrant fashion shades.
40 Volume Developer
Purpose
A 40-volume developer offers maximum lift and is used for intense color changes.
Effects
It can lift the hair by three to four shades and is recommended for high-lift blonde shades.
Suitability
Suitable for lightening dark hair significantly or achieving very light blonde shades.
Mixing Ratios
- 1:1 Ratio: Suitable for coloring hair a single shade close to the natural color or covering gray hair.
- 1:1.5 Ratio: Ideal for toning or lightening hair by one or two levels.
- 1:2 Ratio: Used for dramatic color changes, going three or four shades lighter.
Final Thoughts
Mastering the art of measuring and developing hair color is a fundamental skill for achieving professional results in hair coloring. By following the right techniques, considering key factors, and leveraging technology, you can confidently elevate your color management game and deliver stunning hair transformations.
